If your dog isn't sound shy, you can train her for duck hunting. However, if he's sound shy, just forget about it. Sound shyness is also known as gun shyness, some dogs are totally immune but for those that have it, it is better described as 'sound terror' or 'sound panic'. We are not talking about a dog that is startled by a sudden noise, then gets on with the rest of his life, we are talking about panic - terror. There appears to be no degree of sound shyness, dogs either have it in full measure or not at all. Sound shyness may be an inherited trait or one that has been acquired after birth - some breeds seem more susceptible than others. Dogs can learn to fear situations from the behaviour of other dogs in the pack. Fire crackers, whips, gun shots, exhaust back fire, a cricket ball being hit, thunder, smoke detectors, etc can turn the dog into a completely nervous wreck. Although you may achieve some improvement by therapy, these dogs aren't suitable for hunting.
The first year of quail-hunting
over a young dog is crucial prepa- ration for the 10 to 12 seasons that
it will share with you; those first hunts and the months leading up to
them will require both dedication and self-control on your part.
We don't like to see
a first-year dog hunted on doves or pheasants. Dove feathers can stick
in a dog's mouth, causing problems with retrieving down the road. Pheasants
don't play fair - they run and can spur a dog during a retrieve. This can
lead to "hard mouth" or it can discourage a dog from retrieving altogether.
The way to start a
young (from eight weeks on up) dog on retrieving is to throw objects -
tennis balls, socks filled with feathers, or dummies - for it to retrieve.
(We use boat bumpers with wing feathers taped to them.) Ninety-five percent
of all bird dogs are natural retrievers.
When working with
your pup, keep each session fun, simple and short. After
it locates and picks up the thrown object, kneel and clap your hands. After
your pup comes to you, take the object and praise the dog. Always quit
before the dog tires. Two or three retrieves is often enough.
If you follow this
regimen every day (or at least two or three times a week) you should never
have to teach forced retrieving.
Before taking a dog
to the field, it should learn to heel, "whoa," fetch and come when called.
Remember that the
first year should be devoted to developing range and handling. Shooting
birds is secondary.
If you need to teach
a dog to work in close, either ropes or an electronic collar can be used.
However, I find that
whistle training works best for me. The dogs respond much better to a whistle
than voice commands.
Holding point is also
a must. If a dog deliberately busts the birds, lay your gun down and correct
the dog, above all don't shoot a bird, because this will only encourage
flushing.
Backing, or honoring,
is also taught the first year. Your dog must know "whoa" so you can stop
it on command. A training aid that we use is simply a rope, without handles
or knots, which can get hung up on weeds and bushes.
Timing is all-important.
When a dog goes on point, lay your gun down and bring your dog in on the
rope for the back.
The extra time you
spend on this training will reap big benefits during a dog's lifetime.
Breaking to the
gun is fairly simple. Remember that dogs are not gun shy when born.
Owners cause dogs to become gun shy.
You can acclimate
your pup by dropping food pans, clapping your hands or smacking two boards
together while it is eating. We like to shoot .22 crimps while a pup chases
a clipped pigeon. To do this yourself, throw a bird into a field, and when
the dog reaches it, fire the starter pistol behind your back. When the
dog becomes accustomed to the sound, move up to .22 blanks, then a .410
shot-gun, and so on.
When you believe your
dog is ready, use common sense. On opening day, don't let a party of three
or more hunter cut loose with their semiautomatics on the first covey.
When you down a bird
that the dog does not see, mark the spot with your hat. Bring the young
dog in on the rope and say, "Dead bird" very slowly. Drag the words out.
Kneel, if necessary, to get the dog to come in close.
The ability to effectively follow the swing of the shotgun and mark off the end of the gun barrel is a ability that dogs develop through many years experience hunting along side a shotgun, this method could take several years depending on how often the dog is in the field each year and how effective the guns are. This ability can also be develop through training extensive training shooting released live birds, although this method is much faster than counting on hunting season success to train the dog it evolves access to many birds which becomes extremely expensive and requires the help of a second training partner at best.
